01. The Must Concept
Cartier — C'est un must!
The Cartier Tank is officially introduced to the market, becoming one of Cartier's most iconic watch designs.
Robert Hocq acquires Cartier Paris, marking the beginning of the Must de Cartier concept.
The Must de Cartier Tank was introduced at approximately US$500, distinguished by its vermeil case construction and bold, lacquered dials.
Creation of Cartier Monde, unifying Paris, London, and New York into one global Cartier identity.
Yves Saint Laurent, photographed by Irving Penn, is seen wearing a Must de Cartier Tank, reflecting the model's cultural presence beyond watchmaking.
Cartier released an Art Deco limited edition with only 1,000 pieces created in both small models (ref. 1614) and large models (ref. 1616).
The Must de Cartier line was discontinued as Cartier underwent a strategic repositioning within Richemont's portfolio.
Cartier revives the concept as the Tank Must, featuring lacquered colour dials and solar-powered movements.
02. The Must de Cartier Tank
Design & Construction
When the Cartier Tank Must was introduced in the 1970s, it was never intended to make a dramatic statement. Instead, it quietly redefined what a Cartier could be. Priced at around US$500 (approximately AUD $600–700 at the time), it offered a more attainable path into the Maison while preserving the elegance and restraint that had long defined the Tank.
A key part of that vision was its use of vermeil, a precious combination of sterling silver coated with a thick layer of gold. Rather than replicating the extravagance of solid gold, vermeil delivered much of its warmth, refinement, and presence in a more considered form. It was a practical choice, but never one that compromised on character.
Early Must Tanks were powered by manual-winding movements based on the ETA 2512-1, reflecting Cartier's traditional watchmaking roots. As the Quartz Crisis reshaped the industry in the late 1970s, the collection gradually transitioned to quartz calibres—including the 81, 90, 057, 687, and 690—embracing new technology while retaining the design language that made the Tank instantly recognisable.
More than five decades later, the enduring appeal of the Must Tank lies not in its movement alone, but in the timelessness of its design. The clean rectangular brancards, the blue spinel cabochon, the blued steel hands sweeping across the railway minute track, and the unmistakable Roman numerals all remain unmistakably Cartier. On many dials, a discreet hidden signature within the VII or X numeral offers one final detail—subtle enough to escape notice, yet entirely fitting for a watch whose greatest strength has always been its quiet confidence.
| Quick Reference: Must de Cartier Specs |
| Case material: Vermeil (sterling silver with gold electroplating) |
| Case sizes: LM (Large Model, 23x31mm) and SM (Small Model, 20x28mm) |
| Movements: Manual-wind ETA 2512-1 (1976–1981), then quartz (cal. 81, 90, 057, 687, 690) |
| Crown: Faceted, set with blue spinel or synthetic sapphire cabochon |
| Hands: Blued steel, sword-shaped |
| Production run: c. 1976–2004 |
| Production volume peak: 160,000+ watches per year |
03. The Art of the Dials
What distinguished the Must de Cartier was not simply its accessibility, but the way it challenged conventional ideas of luxury. Cartier recognised that value did not have to reside solely in precious materials, it could also be found in proportion, colour, craftsmanship, and enduring design. This philosophy transformed the dial into a canvas for creativity, giving rise to one of the most diverse and distinctive collections of dial designs ever produced by the Maison.
That diversity remains one of the defining attractions of the Must de Cartier today. For collectors, the appeal extends beyond rarity to the subtle nuances that distinguish one watch from another: the depth of lacquer, the character developed through age, and the small variations that make each example unique. Rather than being defined by a single reference, the Must de Cartier is remembered for the remarkable freedom it embraced for the dials, allowing the same iconic case to become the foundation for an extraordinary range of artistic expression.
1. The Classic Roman Numeral Dial (Ivory, White and Black)
Among the many dial variations, the Roman numeral design remains the definitive expression of the Must de Cartier. Set against an ivory, white, or black dial, bold Roman numerals are framed by a fine railway minute track and complemented by blued steel sword hands, a composition that has become synonymous with Cartier's timeless aesthetic.
Look closer, however, and another detail often emerges. On many examples, the Cartier signature is discreetly concealed within the VII numeral, and on certain references, within the X. Introduced as an anti-counterfeiting measure, the signature has since become a hallmark appreciated by collectors. It is a feature rarely noticed at first glance, revealing itself only upon careful inspection, a subtle reminder that the finest details are often those least eager to announce themselves.
Less commonly encountered than the classic Roman dial, black lacquer examples are generally associated with the earlier manual-wind Must de Cartier models produced between approximately 1976 and 1981. They demonstrate Cartier's ability to reinterpret its own design language, introducing greater contrast and visual depth while remaining unmistakably a Tank.
With age, the lacquer surface may develop crazing, a delicate network of fine hairline fractures caused by the natural ageing and contraction of the lacquer. Among collectors, this is often regarded as part of the watch's character rather than a defect, reflecting decades of careful wear and preservation. Examples with smooth, well-preserved lacquer and minimal crazing have become increasingly difficult to source and consequently command a noticeable premium in today's vintage market.
2. The Trinity Dial
Among the many dial variations produced for the Must de Cartier, the Trinity Dial remains one of the most distinctive. Its inspiration can be traced to the iconic Cartier Trinity ring, created by Louis Cartier in 1924, whose three interlocking bands of yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold came to symbolise fidelity, friendship, and love.
Around 1980, Cartier translated this jewellery icon into the Must collection. Rather than replicating the ring itself, the design distilled its essence into three parallel bands of contrasting gold tones across the dial, introducing colour, texture, and depth while preserving the clean geometry of the Tank. The result was unmistakably Cartier, an elegant reinterpretation of one of the Maison's most celebrated creations.
Produced in relatively limited numbers, Trinity dials are encountered far less frequently than the standard Roman or lacquer variants. Their direct connection to Cartier's jewellery heritage, combined with their distinctive appearance, has made them especially sought after by collectors. Today, enthusiasts generally recognise three principal configurations: the Horizontal Centre Trinity, the Column Trinity, and the Side Trinity, each offering its own interpretation of the original concept.
3. The Lacquered Colour Dials
Among its most memorable features back when the Must de Cartier debuted in the late 1970s were the boldly coloured lacquer dials, many presented without numerals at all. It was a confident departure from convention, demonstrating that a watch could rely on proportion, colour, and form, rather than hour markers alone, to create a lasting identity.
DIAL TYPE
Burgundy / Claret
The most iconic lacquered dial. Highly sought-after — deep lacquer tones are especially prone to spidering, making pristine examples increasingly rare.
DIAL TYPE
Navy Blue
A formal, evening-wear dial. Against the gold case, the deep blue evokes lapis lazuli. Blue dials appear across the full production run.
DIAL TYPE
Forest Green
Among the rarer original lacquered variants. Collector interest surged after Cartier's 2021 revival featured a green-dialled Tank Must that sold out immediately.
DIAL TYPE
Black Lacquer
The most formal and versatile of the colour family. Produced with both gold-painted and white Roman numerals, creating two distinct visual registers.
4. Tortoiseshell and Wood-Effect Lacquer Dials
Within the Must de Cartier collection, these dials represent Cartier's exploration beyond solid colour, embracing textured and illusionistic lacquer finishes. The tortoiseshell dial is created using layered lacquer in shades of amber, brown, and black, producing a rich, organic appearance that recalls the depth and irregularity of natural tortoiseshell. As a result of the hand-finished process, no two dials are exactly alike.
The wood-effect dial takes a different approach. Through carefully applied lacquer, Cartier recreated the appearance of timber grain, with flowing patterns that mimic natural wood fibres. Compared with the bold monochromatic lacquer dials, these designs offer a softer, warmer aesthetic while retaining the clean geometry of the Tank.
Today, both variations remain among the less frequently encountered Must dials. Their appeal lies not only in their relative scarcity, but also in the individuality of each example. Ageing, lacquer patina, and subtle variations in the finishing ensure that every dial develops its own character, reflecting Cartier's willingness to treat the watch dial as a decorative canvas rather than simply a functional display.
5. Faux-Stone Dials: Lapis Lazuli and Onyx
Lapis-style and onyx-style dials demonstrate Cartier's ability to recreate the visual richness of natural hardstones through lacquer alone. The lapis variation evokes the deep blue of lapis lazuli, often accented by delicate gold-toned flecks that recall the mineral inclusions found in the stone itself. The onyx-style dial, by contrast, captures the smooth, uninterrupted black surface of polished onyx. Rather than using the stones themselves, Cartier achieved these effects through layered lacquer, creating remarkable depth and a refined, reflective finish while remaining true to the design principles of the Must de Cartier.
For collectors, their appeal lies in this thoughtful interpretation rather than literal imitation. They offer much of the visual character associated with hardstone dials while remaining faithful to the vermeil construction that defined the Must collection. The lapis-style dial is admired for its richness and subtle variation, whereas the onyx-style dial is valued for its minimalist aesthetic, allowing the Tank's distinctive proportions and clean lines to take centre stage.
6. The Column Dial
Introduced in the late 1980s, the Column Dial arranges the Roman numeral hour markers into two vertical columns flanking the centre of the dial, creating a composition that feels strikingly architectural. Its strong geometry recalls the symmetry and restraint often associated with Art Deco, while offering a distinctly unconventional interpretation of the Tank's familiar design language.
Less frequently encountered than the classic Roman or lacquer dials, the Column Dial has become a favourite among many collectors for its distinctive layout and strong visual identity. It departs from tradition without abandoning it, demonstrating Cartier's willingness to reinterpret one of its most recognisable designs while preserving the elegance that defines the Must de Cartier.
7. The Sunray Dial
Appearing from around 1980, the sunray dial introduced another layer of refinement to the Must de Cartier. Defined by fine radial brushing that radiates from the centre, the finish interacts with light in a constantly changing way, shifting from soft matte tones to a gentle metallic sheen as the viewing angle changes. On some examples, Cartier also employed guilloché or engine-turning, adding further texture and visual depth.
More restrained than the bold lacquer dials, yet more animated than a flat surface, the sunray finish offers a subtle balance between simplicity and expression. Rather than drawing immediate attention, it rewards closer observation, revealing changing reflections throughout the day. The result is a dial that feels quietly alive—adding depth and elegance while remaining entirely consistent with the understated character of the Tank.
8. The Cloisonné Dial
Among the many dial variations produced for the Must de Cartier, the cloisonné dial represents one of the collection's most technically accomplished executions. Introduced around 1985, it employed fine metal wires, known as cloisons, carefully applied to the dial surface to create compartments that served not only as hour markers but also as integral elements of the overall design.
Unlike printed or lacquered dials, the cloisonné dial possesses a distinct sense of depth and texture. The raised metal wires catch the light, cast delicate shadows, and create a subtle three-dimensional effect that changes with every movement of the wrist. The result is a dial that feels carefully constructed rather than simply decorated, reflecting Cartier's longstanding relationship with the decorative arts.
Produced in relatively limited numbers and encountered only occasionally on today's vintage market, cloisonné dials remain especially sought after by collectors. Well-preserved examples, retaining crisp wire definition and clean dial surfaces, are increasingly difficult to find and are widely regarded as among the most desirable expressions of the Must de Cartier.
9. Arabic Numeral and Breguet Numeral Dials
Produced in far smaller numbers than the standard Roman numeral models, the Must de Cartier was occasionally offered with Arabic numeral dials, giving the familiar Tank a distinctly different character. Among the most notable is a reportedly limited edition of around 500 pieces, featuring oversized Arabic numerals at 12 and 6.
Even rarer are examples with Breguet numerals. Their elegant, serifed forms introduce a more classical aesthetic while remaining unmistakably Cartier. For collectors, these dials are prized not only for their rarity, but for the way a simple change in typography transforms the character of the watch, revealing another facet of Cartier's design language.
10. Art Deco Must Tank (ref. 1616, 1995)
Finally, this is one of the most distinctive dials within the Must de Cartier collection - The Art Deco Tank Must (ref. 1616). Introduced in 1995, its dial embraces the defining principles of Art Deco, geometry, symmetry, and clean, disciplined lines, resulting in a design that is both striking and understated.
The watch pays tribute to the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris, the event that gave the Art Deco movement its name and profoundly influenced architecture, jewellery, and industrial design throughout the twentieth century. Around the same period, Cartier also produced a number of highly specialised Must Tank variations for the Japanese market, including sector and Art Deco-inspired dials, as well as exclusive Christmas editions.
Released as a worldwide limited edition of 1,000 pieces, the Art Deco Tank Must ref. 1616 has since become one of the most sought-after references among vintage Cartier collectors.
04. Must de Cartier Rarity Guide
Collectors and specialist dealers broadly agree on the following rarity hierarchy for Must de Cartier dial types.
| DIAL TYPE | RARITY | NOTES |
|---|---|---|
| Ivory Roman Numeral | COMMON | Most plentiful on the vintage market |
| Lacquered Blue | UNCOMMON | Easier to find than red or green |
| Lacquered Burgundy / Red | UNCOMMON | Higher spidering risk makes pristine examples scarcer |
| Trinity Dial | UNCOMMON | Strong demand; commands a premium |
| Lacquered Green | RARE | Demand increased significantly post-2021 revival |
| Black Roman (manual-wind era) | RARE | Shorter production window; lacquer fragility reduces pristine supply |
| Tortoiseshell / Wood-Effect | RARE | Era-specific production; valued for historical character |
| Column Dial | RARE | Sought by completist collectors |
| Sunray Dial | RARE | Fewer examples than Roman numeral or Trinity variants |
| Art Deco Ltd. Edition (ref. 1616) | VERY RARE | 1,000 pieces worldwide; 1995 release |
| Arabic / Breguet Numeral | VERY RARE | Tiny production numbers |
| Cloisonné Dial | VERY RARE | Among the most expensive vintage Cartier dials |
05. Last thoughts
More than four decades after its introduction, the Must de Cartier remains remarkable not simply for its accessibility, but for the freedom it gave Cartier to experiment.
Today, these watches are appreciated not only as vintage timepieces, but as small works of design history. Whether defined by lacquer, geometry, texture, or colour, every dial reflects a moment when Cartier demonstrated that a watch could be both an instrument of time and a canvas for artistic expression.
Perhaps that is the enduring legacy of the Must de Cartier: not that it redefined luxury, but that it proved the simplest surface of a watch could become its most compelling story.